Discovering Treachery

The New Year can bring resolutions, revelations, and uncertainty but one event is a constant in my life. Since I was a post-graduate I have been a member of The Study Group on the Russian Revolution, which holds its annual conference in the first week of January. It provides delegates with the chance to hear new research on a broad range of subjects connected to late Imperial Russia, the Revolutions in 1917, the Civil War and covers social, political, military and cultural topics. Over the years it has been held in various university cities in the UK and even in Belgium. This year it was in Southampton.

After the conference this year I spent an extra night in the hotel as there wasn’t a flight available until the following day. I arranged to go out to dinner with a colleague in similar circumstances and agreed to meet in the foyer at an agreed time. As I went towards the lift to go down from my room at the appointed time two young boys, about 10 years old, were also waiting for the lift. One decided he would take the stairs and shouted, ‘Race you!’ as he disappeared round the corner.

Game on! I thought, as the lift doors opened. ‘Quick, push the button!’ I encouraged the other boy. He smiled shyly and shrugged. ‘He will probably win’, he said, resignedly. Down went the lift and … stopped on the first floor! Oh no! Now we had most certainly lost the challenge. However, no one was waiting to get on! ‘Your friend pushed the call button as he ran past!’ I gasped.

‘Oh no he wouldn’t do that’ he replied aghast that I would suggest it! However, as we reached the ground floor and the doors opened there was his friend leisurely tying his shoe laces, as if to tell us he had been waiting a long time. My traveling companion looked at me with sadness and realisation in his eyes ‘He did, didn’t he!’ He had discovered treachery!

I, Baba.

It has been a difficult year. Not in any tragic or dramatic sense but simply a year that has seemed without meaningful purpose or direction. When I turned sixty, three years ago, I actively sought out new challenges and directions for my life. I love being ‘old’ enough to be what and who I want, leaving behind a less confident, overly self-conscious self and embracing my own worth, appreciating my experiences and relishing new adventures, and even though I have enjoyed taking on new and fulfilling ventures, this year has felt a little rudderless.

One of the greatest joys of life in recent years has been my promotion to grandparenthood. Our eldest granddaughter arrived shortly after I turned 60 and has been instrumental in keeping me ‘on my toes’ (because, quite frankly, it is difficult to get up off my knees when playing on the floor!) I love seeing her, and her fellow girl gang members (there are now three granddaughters) growing and experiencing the world around them.

She visited yesterday. While playing a new game I mentioned she was ‘a clever girl.’ Her response, which has become a bit of a mantra recently, was a very determined, ‘I, Isla’. I wondered how she would describe me so asked, ‘Who am I?’ Without looking up from her game she responded very matter-of-factly, ‘You, Baba.’ Baba is the name I chose to be known as, short for babushka. ‘But, I’m Jenny’ I prodded a little further to see her reaction. She shook her head a little, again without looking up from her game, ‘You, Baba’.

‘I am also Jenny’ I added again, to see if she could understand a little of the complexity of identity. Her response was forceful. Looking up, she put her little hand on my chest and looked me straight in the eye – sometimes, Babas need to be instructed very directly! ‘You. Baba.’ she stated very determinedly.

In those 2 words, from the heart of a 3-year-old, I suddenly rediscovered my purpose. Whatever the future holds and whatever new adventures await I shall meet them all head on as Baba! What fun I am going to have!

Edinburgh Fringe 2023

4 days, 12 events.

Day Two

Day two of our fesitval jaunt was our most varied. We began in a leisurely manner at the Book Festival listening to Richart T. Kelly talk about his new book, The Black Eden, set in Scotland over the period of discovery and early exploration for oil. I hadn’t read the book as it only came out in July. Our interest was in the subject matter but I was intrigued enough to want to buy the book too. I usually manage a couple of visits to the book festival but this year I only managed to fit in one. The festival bookshop is always a wonderful place to spend some free time and a stroll along the shelves browsing the collections. Unfortunately, I really have not taken to the new venue at Edinburgh College of Art. It feels seperated from all the other events and bustle of Edinburgh in August. I loved the old location on Charlotte Square, which felt like it was in the heart of the many festivals going on at the same time, and look forward to visiting their permanent new location in 2024 which will hopefully recapture the thrill of the festival and to continue to enjoy their varied and interesting programme.

We quickly jumped on a tram after the book event and rode all the way down to Leith on the newly opened secion of the tramway and a little adventure away from festival events. It was great to trundle down Leith Walk and to see all theeh busy little shops and cafes along the way. Our mission in Leith was to feed the body rather than the mind as we headed towards The Kitchin for some fine dining. It was our first time at Tom Kitchen’s Leith restaurant although we had in previous years eaten at The Castle Terrace which he also owned. I found Castle Terrace a little pretentious, I have to say, but I found no fault with The Kitchen. The food, the room, the setting and above all the staff were amazing. A real culinary experience!

Our relaxing lunch turned into a relaxed afternoon until a comedy show with Marc Jennings in the early evening. I have followed Jennings on social media for a couple of years and wasn not able to fit in his Edinburgh show at last year’s festival so I was really keen to see him this year. He did not disappoint. There was some poignant content matter which was handled sensitively and humourously. Less experienced comedians could have fallen into the trap of becoming maudlin but Jennings left us with a feel good warmth and a hearty laugh at the dilemma of a Celtic fan wanting to play his Mum’s favourite song – Simply The Best- at her funeral. For those unfamiliar with Scottish football, This song is associated with the fans of Rangers, the other Glasgow team and great rival of Celtic.

We had enough time for a snack and some drinks before our final show of the evening, An Audience with Tom Robinson, one of my favourite artists to emerge in the punk era. I think it was, for both of us, our favourite show. Many bands and artists of the 60s and 70s have continued to have great careers and still put on stadium tours and shows but there is something very comfortable at a certain age to sit in a small audience listening to a favourite artist, who has aged likewise – Tom hobbled on stage on crutches after his recent knee surgery, singing familiar songs, and knowing all the lyrics. Tom chatted like he was in a cozy setting with friends, retelling his career ups and downs while playing acoustic versions of his familiar songbook. It was a highlight I shall not forget.

Edinburgh Fringe 2023

4 days, 12 events.

Day One

‘What was your favourite bit?’ I used to ask The Bombers this question after we had enjoyed a day out or event. Sometimes the answers would be clear cut and at other times there would be several moments that had given pleasure or revealed the different ‘take aways’ for them. Sometimes it is difficult, if not impossible, to place one moment above all the others, especially in the entertainment or event spans several days and genres.

Such is the diversity of things to do and see at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival that it is difficult to impose a hierarchy of favourites. How can you, for example, compare an art exhibition to a Michelin-starred lunch? A comedian to a jazz quintet? Even within genres, is it fair to compare a seasoned comedian with a 40 year career to a young comedian trying out material in their first stand up show?

We managed to pack 12 events into our short stay in the city and none of them disappointed. After dropping off our luggage we wandered down to the National Gallery to see The Grayson Perry retrospective called Smash Hits. As we were a little early for our timed entry slot we walked round the Elizabeth Blackadder and Robert Houston exhibition which is well worth the visit on its own.

I was lucky enough to see The Tomb of the Unknown Craftsman exhibition of Perry’s work at the British Museum in 2011 and was delighted to see some of the pieces exhibited then included in the current show. However, for me, the big wow was the emormous tapestries on display. Each one could have taken hours to pour over in detail as they contain so many different elements. Thank goodness for the exhibition book which can be poured over at leisure giving more detail and information on specific works. The themes of identity, sex and violence the exhibition can prove provocative and challenging but there was a steady stream of people willing to view and appreciate Perry’s works.

Our next event was a stand up show, The Best of Scottish Comedy. I have generally avoided stand-up at previous festivals simply because of the difficulty in chosing from the vast numbers of stand-up shows listed. To others who feel the same I would say start with one of the ‘Best of…’ type shows which will give short introductions to comedians you may like to see more of…or less! Each show will give the audience a flavour of three or four comedians who have shows within the festival programme. Of the three comedians we saw one was not to our taste, one was entertaining and one was hilarious. Robin Grainger told the story of his debut at the Fringe last year when he had only one audience member. That audient (because there is actually a word for a singular audience!) left after the show and spread the word about how funny Grainger was. Then, with the help of social media and a review, word of the show spread quickly. His story of the event and aftermath were hilariously told in the best tradition of comedy. However, his second story of taking a bath to relieve stress on the advice of his girlfriend proves Grainger’s comedy does not rely solely on his debut misadventure. I will definitely make a point of seeing his full show when I get the opportunity.

Edinburgh Fringe

There are many arguments or discusions to be had about the growth of the Edinburgh Fringe, who it serves, how it is financially crippling to many performers, whether it is diverse enough etc and I am happy to take part in those debates. However, I have to say going to Edinburgh during August is one of my annual highlights. Of course, I embody many of the privileges that the fringe accommodates easily. Nevertheless, I will have a great time exploring some of the city and enjoying as diverse a range of entertainment and culture as I can possibly fit in.

We booked our (overly expensive) accommodation months ago so when I received an e-mail reminder that payment was due I was a little surprised to see the dates on the booking were not what I thought I had booked. A quick search later and I discovered, with that lurching sense of forboding in my stomach, I had made a mistake and booked for one day later than we would be arriving. Luckily, with an even quicker search later, I happily discovered I could change my booking to the correct dates and save myself nearly £100 into the bargain.

All that remains now is the problematic fitting-in of all the events we want to see, not just at the Fringe but the Book Festival also! Some comedy (Marc Jennings, Stewart Lee and Best of Scottish Comedy), some music (Tom Robinson), some drama (…and this is my friend Mr Laurel, Alan Bennett’s Cocktail Sticks) some art (Grayson Perry) and some fine dining at The Kitchin should round off the utter middle-classness of the whole thing. I look forward to it immensely and shall repent afterwards.

Dinner and Lunch: Two locations.

The Anderson, Fortrose, has a prominant position on the High Street in the town and can’t be missed on the drive through. On our recent holiday, which included a stopover in The Black Isle to visit Baby Bomber’s family, we dined in The Whisky Room of The Anderson. The decor has been described in other reviews as ‘tired’ and ‘grubby’ , and it is not to everyone’s taste but I like the dark and slightly eclectic style, heavy on film references. A big plus for us is that it is a dog friendly restaurant and Rousay was welcomed with her own little sheepskin rug and message ‘Reserved for a very special dog’. Rousay, being contrary, decided to sit under a bench beside another table!

The food, described as American smokehouse and diner fare, is really good. I had the delicious Philly cheesesteak sandwich with fries while the Wing Commander chose the Wild boar and sauerkraut with chilli con carne Superdawg. We both really enjoyed and recommend them. On a previous visit last year they also had a deep south menu (if I remember correctly I had the gumbo) and this time there was a Belgian menu, presumably to complement the many Belgian beers stocked.

If there is one criticism it is the speed of service. On both visits service was slow. I may be being generous but I think this is to reflect the laid back atmosphere of the place. However, when dining with toddlers a speedier delivery of the food would have been appreciated. In fact, our Little Explosion’s food was the last to arrive at the table and some time after the adults had been served. Any diner would be advised to go prepared for long, relaxed conversations before food arrives (and have a snackeral so as not to be ravenous when waiting for service!) and if dining with children, make sure there are appropriate activities to keep them occupied. Otherwise, enjoy!

Have apeep at their website for further info
https://www.theanderson.co.uk/?fbclid=IwAR0k46CKuqtwqkTlRBjISMHfdVyLD76oSxBx2aX31Jbc-M4n0hxvcqEVykE

The following day we drove across Scotland to Skye where we stopped off at The Coffee Bothy for a quick lunch. This is another dog friendly eatery and the owners have their own wee pupper welcoming guests although he wears a sign advising against feeding him which is understandable I guess but I couldn’t help but feel sorry for the wee soul! He did manage to snaffle a few crumbs off the floor but don’t tell the owners! Shhh!

It was very busy but we were greeted as we came in the door and found the last two spaces with room for Rousay too. The Wing Commander chose the soup and sandwich option while I went straight to the Sandwich! Delicious fresh bread and plenty filling! On relfection I wish I had browsed the cake cabinet which was full of amazing fresh homebakes. I will have to return to try those out!

Not usually part of a review but I feel I have to mention the toilet in as polite a way as possible. It has a golden seat which puts it high on my list of top toilets but what I was really impressed with was the selection of sanitary products left for customers to use. Well done Coffee Bothy for that! Top of my toilet spots for that.

Check out their Facebook page to make your mouth water at all the goodies available.
https://www.facebook.com/thecoffeebothyskye/about

Eriskay and the S.S. Politician

The Outer Hebrides have benefitted in recent years from the connection of several of the islands by causways allowing easy travel between them. It is now possible to visit ten islands from Vatersay in the south to Lewis in the north via two ferries and six causeways. I first visited these wonderful islands five years ago with a group of friends walking the Hebridean Way and fell in love with the islands. https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/hebrideanway/walking#:~:text=Over%20the%20course%20of%20156,includes%20two%20stunning%20ferry%20journeys.

Each island has its own charm. Vatersay and Harris are particular favourites of mine but there are good reasons to fall in love with all of them for different reasons. On our current holiday we are based in North Uist but have easy access to Berneray in the north all the way down to Eriskay in the south. Eriskay, though small – there are about 200 inhabitants currently – has two claims to fame: Bonnie Prince Charlie landed on the beach on the west side of the island in 1745 to begin his campaign to win back the throne of Great Britain and in 1941 a ship carrying, among other things, 240,000 bottles of whisky went aground on the island in a storm on its way from Liverpool to Jamaica and New Orleans. The story became well known internationally through the book by Compton MacKenzie and later a film, both sharing the title Whisky Galore.

The captain of the S.S. Politician, who went by the glorious name of Beaconsfield Worthington, and his crew were rescued safely but so were many of the bottles of whisky in the hold by local people who saw, and took, an oportunity! To the locals it was a case of salvage. What was in the sea was theirs to take. However a particularly zealous local customs officer saw it differently and wished to stop the ‘blatant thieveray’ of whisky on which no duty had been paid. He succeeded in prosecuting several local men and eventually, when all else failed, decided to dynamite the ship to prevent further ‘looting’. A local man is said to have commented on the destruction, “Dynamiting whisky. You wouldn’t think there’d be men in the world so crazy as that!” I can only concur but such are the tactics of a custom’s officer scorned.

It is estimated around 24,000 bottles were liberated from the wreck before the enterprise was finally stopped. Other cargo was officially salvaged and returned to warehouses for safe keeping. In 1988 a new pub was openned on Eriskay taking the name Am Politician in commemoration of the event. Behind the bar are some memorabilia including bottles from the wreck. This week I had the pleasure of not only eating a very fine lunch in the wonderful and dog friendly pub, but also admiring the relics that the staff will happily show any visitor who asks.

Below are a couple of photos of my visit and links to the story of the salvage of the whisky and additional information about the bank notes which were also en route to Jamaica and of which I hadn’t previously been aware.

Whisky Galore and the SS Politician
Whisky Bottles liberated from the wreck of the S.S. Politician, locally called The Polly

See this link for story of Jamaican bank notes on board The Polly

https://www.scotsman.com/heritage-and-retro/heritage/on-this-day-80-years-ago-the-ss-politician-sinks-unleashing-whisky-galore-3124322

Other relics, including Jamaican currency, from the hold of the ship

See the following link for Bonnie Prince Charlie information

https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/see-and-do/history/bonnie-prince-charlie-trail

Staycation

Apparently the word ‘Staycation’ entered the lexicon of English words in the early 2000s to mean a holiday (vacation) spent at or near one’s home. In reality it has come to mean a holiday in one’s own country but given that some countries are vastly bigger than others a Staycation in The United States of America, even if limited to a person’s home State, Texas for instance, is a different experience than a staycation in Malta or Bermuda.

Scotland is a small nation but even here I think it is bigger and more diverse than the word staycation allows. To me ‘staycation’ means a holiday at home, possibly used to catch up on all the big chores that always get left ‘until I have more time’. I am, therefore, going to coin a new word, Scotcation, to describe my current holiday to Skye and the some of the Outer Hebridean islands.

Our Scotcation began yesterday with a drive north to the Black Isle, an area that is not, in fact, an island but lies between the Cromarty Firth and Moray Firth in the Highlands. Our Baby Bomber lives there with her Navigator and Tiny Explosion. We spent a wonderful few hours catching up in person. Video calls are great for grandparents who live far from grandchildren and our regular onscreen chats mean our Little Explosion recognised us immediately and there was no shyness in our visit. She is growing so fast and it was a lovely time spent getting to know her better and, of course, to see our youngest daughter and her husband.

Today we drove west to cross the bridge to Skye, an island we have briefly visited before and enjoyed. As we had limited time we decided to do only one tourist stop, which we narrowed down to a choice of two: The Old Man of Stor or The Fairy Pools. We didn’t make the final decision until our lunch stop at the Coffee Bothy (more on that and our meal last night at The Anderson in Fortrose in another blog). As the weather looked very changeable we settled on a visit to the latter. Mainly because it looked like an easier walk back to the car if the heavens opened and we got wet!

Either would have been a good decision and both were undoubtedly going to be busy with tourists but the Fairy Pools were a very enjoyable choice for us. There is a long single track road (with many passing places available) into a massive new carpark. Money has also been spent to create a good path to walk up the glen to the pools. It is an easy walk but as it goes steeply down to begin before ascending again it means that on the return journey there is a steep incline up to the carpark before resting from your efforts!

The path follows the River Brittle up towards the Black Cuillins where it commences and allows for views of the many waterfalls along its path as it falls into the glen. Some are small with little pools while others are larger and create pools that are suitable for bathing, swimming and diving although it is very cold. I did not go swimming but enjoyed the energetic walk and managed to get a few great photos.

Rousay at the car park
Wing Commander with Rousay enjoyng he view
A fairy pool with the Black Cuillins in the background

We are spending the night in the northen part of the island and will be sailing for North Uist tomorrow.

Developing Green Fingers.

I recently took up gardening. Mum was a great gardener, growing most of her own vegetables: potatoes, cabbages, turnips, onions, carrots, anything and everything really. And she was successful. I had often thought to emulate her but had never had the time nor, if I am honest, the inclination to do so until recently. We have a massive garden but it is mostly lawn surrounded by trees where the Bombers played as they were growing up. We have planted some flower and shrub beds but it has remained mostly grass in all the years we have lived here. The Wing Commander added an apple tree many years ago and I planted a couple of blackcurrant bushes which have produced fruits for jams and crumbles. However, as I am now a pensionista, I thought it was the right time to test if there was a family gene for green-fingeredness.

I have decided to start small and see where my ambitions can take me. Rather than dig out a vegetable patch in the garden I bought a greenhouse. It is one of the pop-up kind with an easy to assemble frame and a green plastic cover. There is a roll up door and just enough room to stand up in with three shelves on each side.

My initial intention was to grow tomatoes, and I am. Three plants with different varieties. I have also branched out into peas, onions, spring onions and lettuce. I was ably helped in planting by my 2 year old Little Explosion so the result was a kind of scatter gun approach. Nevertheless, most have grown and required replanting from clumps of seedlings into more ordered rows in troughs. The lettuce has been particularly successful and we may be eating salad all summer. The others are all doing well too. However, the one I am most excited about was an unexpected experiment.

While filling pots and trays with compost I discovered in the newly opened bag, one single kernal of corn. It had begun to sprout with a couple of centimetres of root showing. I didn’t expect it would grow but it was a bit different from sowing seeds and The Little Explosion seemed interested in poking it into a pot. To my surprise and delight it is currently pushing upward and looking mighty healthy. I feel like a new parent tending the development of my little veggy offspring!

Therefore, let me introduce you to Cornelia!

Two Entertainments in One.

It has been a few years since I have enjoyed so many evenings out to enjoy the theatre, live music and exhibitions. Busy schedules and then the pandemic conspired to keep us away from the cultural highlights in the city and surrounding area but we seem, in recent months, to have begun to make up for past absence. With friends who have recently moved to the city we have enjoyed a mix of music, dance, drama and art at various venues. Last week we were lucky to get tickets to see the inimitable Angelique Kidjo, Beninese singer and Grammy winner.

Not only were we entertained with a great mix of Afropop, jazz, Latin and Caribbean music, Kidjo put her whole being into her performance.  She danced and delivered her songs, including Mother Earth which won her 5th Grammy, across the full area of the stage not occupied by her band. She even managed to get the enthusiastic audience on their feet.

I often complain that many Scottish audiences of a certain vintage display an unfortunate presbyterian restraint in their enjoyment of entertainment. They may, reluctantly, be persuaded to clap their hands, even to stand while doing so but it is rare that a seated audience can be persuaded to get up and dance enthusiastically in the aisles. I have enjoyed many musical treats, including the Blind Boys of Alabama and The Buena Vista Social Club, who have succeeded in enticing an audience to its feet to clap along politely but I have rarely witnessed the exuberance that Kidjo coaxed from her audience. The clapping and vague shuffling of feet gave way to whooping and unrestrained (and occasionally unrhythmic) dancing as Kidjo worked her audience into a very un-Calvinistic passion. The evening was more reminiscent of a Southern Revivalist Christian church service than a Scottish concert and my heart soared at the possibility that a local audience could get beyond politely restrained appreciation, especially for such a great performer as Kidjo.