After all the pre-travel stress and uncertainty we had a fabulous weekend in Dublin. The first flight to Amsterdam was nearly empty although the flight to Dublin was busy where we succeeded in confusing border control by our circuitious route to the city. Thankfully they accepted my explanation that we like adventure and the detour to Amsterdam was indeed a planned part of the journey!
We have led such a reclusive life in the last two years that it was a bit of a shock to the system to be out and about again. Dublin feels very much a European city and there is a wonderful mix of languages on the streets. Sadly, there are also beggars who were more reminiscent of those I have seen on Russian streets than in a modern European capital. Homelessness is, of course, a sad reality of many cities but there was a downtrodenness to these unfortunate people in Dublin that I have rarely seen on the streets of other cities.
There is a danger with citybreaks that an over eagerness to fit everything in can lead to exhaustion and spoil the enjoyment. We picked one attraction per day and added in more if we felt like it and could get tickets. Unlike ‘normal’ travel we had to book everything in advance because of the Covid restrictions but in the end we got to see what we wanted to see and squeezed in an extra too.
The GPO, the site of the Easter Uprising in 1916 was our first stop. I have to admit to a lack of knowledge of Irish history but there was plenty to educate me in the exhibits, academic video discussions and cinematic film of events. I was disappointed in the film to be honest. There is a warning at the beginning that some of the images could produce nausea or dizzyness. That in itself should prompt a rethink of the cinematography. The fast swooping aeriel shots and zooming in, birdseye-like, were very discombobulating and really distracted from the story of the uprising. However, the talking academic heads were very interesting and informative. That may be because it is a format I am well aquainted with and therefore more accesible and interesting to me. I was especially interested in the role of culture and the cultural revival in Irish nationalism. I think I need some recommended reading from Irish historian friends to get a better understanding of the cultural aspects of the history.
The Guinness Storehouse is probably another site on most people’s ‘to visit’ list. As a Scot who has taken visiting friends to several distilleries in the past there was not much new to learn in the story of brewing Guinness but it is a well laid out story with technical details, history and artefacts to interest the visitor. The highlight, though, is the pint on the rooftop with unimpeded views over the city and out to the Wicklow hills. It was a beautiful clear day when we visited and the views were stunning.
While eating lunch at the Guinness Storehouse we managed to book tickets for the Book of Kells exhibition at Trinity College for the afternoon. It is a small but detailed examination of the production of the book and its history culminating in a look at the book itself. However, the real highlight of the visit for me was the walk upstairs to the library. There is nothing better for a book lover to wander through a stunning library and was another little tick for the Bucket List.
The Molly Molone statue was the most elusive of sites we wanted to see! We seemed to walk in ever increasing circles around it without finding it! Eventually, with the help pf Google maps and a few arguments as to whose sense of direction was worse (it is usually my speciality but on this occasion the Wing Commander accused me of holding the map upside down which prompted him to lead us in the opposite direction!). When we found her I was completely taken aback by the group of female tourists in front of us who were taking photos with the statue and, quite frankly, groping her breasts! The statue is dressed in a lowcut top which has obviously been the subject of some discussion in the past (see Wikipedia), and her breasts are shiny where visitors have rubbed them, presumably for luck, over the years. However, it wasn’t, at least on this occasion, a small touch with a fingertip but a full on grope with hands. Of course it is a statue and not a real woman but I was shocked at the ease with which even the image of a woman could be publically groped! The internalised mysogyny was positively oozing aroung the statue. If you must rub something for supposed luck then rub her basket of cockles instead!
On the hospitality side we dined and drank (often) with little difficulty from Covid restrictions. We had to show our Covid passport to get into any bar, cafe or restaurant and had to wear a mask until seated at a table. None of this is a hardship or an invasion of my rights or anyone elses. Many people were wearing masks on the street too. It seemed second nature to Dubliners and there were clear rules to follow.
It was an unexpected, and in the end unnecessary, trip but we had a great time and are very glad we went. Next time I hope we can see more of Ireland and enjoy another couple of days in a vibrant European city.
Significantly Different 