I grew up in Orkney and return regularly to visit family and friends yet there remain many places on the islands I have not visited. I guess while I lived there all the attractions seemed so close and available so there was no rush to visit. Once I moved away it was more important to visit family than places.
Our recent visit, however, was very different to previous visits. For one thing, our Bombers are all grown up and no longer travel with us, or if they do they are self-sufficient and plan their own journeys. Rousay, our collie, is our travelling companion now. Also, sadly, there are less family members to visit. Coming out of the pandemic restrictions it also felt like a good time just to kick back, relax and enjoy a slower pace of holiday.
Having a dog limits the places we can go. Not everywhere is dog friendly. However, we found having to accommodate Rousay actually took us to places we had never been before and walking destinations became more important than other activities.
Our first walk was to the Broch of Gurness, an Iron Age broch and village looking over Eynhallow Sound to the islands of Eynhallow and Rousay. I had actually been to the Broch of Gurness before (many years ago) but The Wing Commander had not. Social distancing and restrictions were in place but it was very quiet when we were there and we enjoyed an uninterrupted walk around the site and into the broch.
Our second walk was a reversal of ‘firsts’. The Wing Commander had previously visited the Fishermen’s huts in Boat Geo but I had not. I had walked nearby before but had never gone to the boat huts. It was a bracing morning walk along the shore from Marwick Bay to the sheltered geo, or inlet and we were even rewarded with a glimpse of a curious seal swimming close to the shore, watching us. The huts were originally built by local fishermen to protect their boats and equipment and were recently restored.
Under a looming sky we walked up to see Kitchener’s Memorial on the other side of Marwick Bay. I am not good with heights so the short walk along the cliffs was enough for me! The memorial can be seen from a distance and I had never had the desire to visit it close up but recently, to mark the centenary since the sinking of The Hampshire and death of Lord Kitchener, a new wall has been added which lists the names of all the crew who lost their lives off the coast of Orkney when the ship, en route to Russia, was sunk by mines on the night of 5th June 1916.
Our next walk was around the Ring of Brodgar, past the excavations at Point of Ness, across the bridge between the Lochs of Harray and Stenness to the Standing Stones and finally up to the Barnhouse Settlement. The Ness excavations were, of course, covered for the winter months and the Stones are well known and we have visited many times. Always a good location for a photo, whatever the weather. However, perhaps less well known is the lovely walk past the Ring of Brodgar to Stenness Loch and along the lochside to the Watchstone, continuing on the road to the Standing Stones and then to Barnhouse Settlement.
This latter site I can be forgiven for not visiting previously as it was only discovered in 1984. Similar to the more famous Skara Brae it is a neolithic settlement with several houses. Although not as well preserved as it’s famous sister site it is a remarkable discovery. Now, I need to visit the Point of Ness excavations in the summertime when work is in progress to complete the visit to the sites on this walk.
As can often happen, the weather which was cold but dry when we started the walk, turned very wet before we returned to the car! It was time to get back to the cottage to dry out with a well earned cuppa!
Dingieshowe beach is described as ‘the perfect place for a seaside stroll, with stunning views towards Copinsay and Orkney’s east coast’. (Orkney.com) Unfortunately, our first visit there did not turn out to be a day when the views were on display! We could barely see one end of the beach from the other! Rousay enjoyed the walk at least so it wasn’t a complete bust! Skaill beach will forever be my ‘perfect place’ but I am partial to a beach walk wherever it may be.
Our holiday was very different to our usual experiences but well worth it. Having Rousay made us change pace and we all benefitted. I can’t wait for a second holiday of firsts!
Significantly Different 